On El Nido (7c+) El Peñol. Colombia
On El Nido (7c+) El Peñol. Colombia
Base Camp on Avellanal. By Adriana Restrepo
During the beginning of the year my friends Orlando (El Papo), Fabio (El Negro) and I succeeded in climbing the East face of Ritacuba Blanco (5 400m). Colombia. Via Tierra de Condores (Condor Land). 800m. We climbed the complete face and the last 250 meters of huge moving blocks, avoiding the last snow hill to the top.
By Adriana Restrepo
The 14 pitch line includes a couple 40 m pitches climbed free up to 7a+. We would say that the 80% of the route is highly esthetic. Gear and camping stuff was initially transported with the help of mules and also with the help of our friends Adriana and Angela from “Parada de Romero” until we reached our base camp on Avellanal Lake on the east side of the Range, from this point we did a few trips to the base of the wall carrying all the necessities for our vertical adventure. In total we spent 3 nights on the wall with fantastic slightly cold “tropical” weather.
It is still hard to recognize the border in between real and un real after an adventure on the edge, seems like everything becomes more clear after some breakfast mix, sipping some yerba mate and chewing some local cheese.!!
We share a few photos with you all !!
Thankx for your cooperation and motivation!
I can still remember myself years ago dangling with aiders super scared from the hook placements up on El Frisol (The bean). An interesting aid route located in a unique granite spot in my country. El Peñol – Colombia.
El Peñol. By Adriana Restrepo.
It was in 2007 when it first came to my mind the possibility of freeing it…. very good challenge, I thought….. Technical, fingery and mentally demanding. “All what I needed In one big climbing combo”.
50 meters with a few very nice boulder problems on a blank face and an interesting off width at the final. Surely it might be possible with a bit of time and work….
On El Frisol Recargado. 5 -13. By Adriana Restrepo.
After rebolting it, my friends from Medellin Jerson, Orlando “El Papo” and I started an intense “solution quest” of the sequence at the beginning of the first pitch. We spent a while figuring those moves out and giving us the chance of making the dream real!.
In 2010, Jerson finally solved the first hard section and in December 2012 after a complete month of working it out I successfully link up the complete route giving to the spirit a bit of joy!!
Share a few photos and motivation with all of you!!
By Adriana Restrepo.
From Carlos Castaneda’s Books.
“If you come here ready to die, there shouldn’t be any pitfalls, or any unwelcome surprises, or any unnecessary acts. Everything should gently fall into place because you’re expecting nothing.”
“Nothing is gained by forcing the issue. If you want to survive you must be crystal clear and deadly sure of yourself.”
Robert on Rocnik 1957. Xb. Labe Valley. CZ
….. You had a degree of abandon, and at the same time you had a degree of control over yourself. You did not let go and wet your pants, and yet you let go and climbed that wall in complete darkness. You could have missed the trail and killed yourself. To climb that wall in darkness required that you had to hold on to yourself and let go of yourself at the same time. That’s what I call the mood of a warrior.
Zdenek Zuska on Skuruty beh. Xb. Labak Valley. CZ
The beetle emerged from a deep hole and stopped a few inches away from my face. It seemed to look at me and for a moment I felt that it became aware of my presence, perhaps as I was aware of the presence of my death. I experienced a shiver. The beetle and I were not that different after all. Death, like a shadow, was stalking both of us from behind the boulder. I had an extraordinary moment of elation. The beetle and I were on a par. Neither of us was better than the other. Our death made us equal.
On Ocistec. Xb. Labe Valley. Czech Republic.
The key to all these matters of impeccability is the sense of having or not having time. As a rule of thumb, when you feel and act like an immortal being that has all the time in the world you are not impeccable; at those times you should turn, look around, and then you will realize that your feeling of having time is an idiocy. There are no survivors on this earth!
My motivation was really low, all the commitment and energy put in the climb seemed to run away, this season i knew the east face of the central tower Alpine style was not going to be possible.
My chilean friend Rodrigo Zapata and I made an attempt on february the 12th, patagonia gave us and amazing day, hard to believe!!, pretty warm and pleasent to be climbing in !!.. no wind!!.
After a quick brakefast early that day, we left our bivy place located in the morraine high up the ascencio valley, heading towards las torres glacier right on the foot of the east face of the central.
After crossing the glacier we found that the conditions were barely perfect, there was anything compare with last seasson wall conditions, this time it was dry!!!, just a few patches of snow were covering some passages of our route, nothing serrius to avoid.
Without hersitation we headed to the begining of our line, we had chosen Waiting for godot, a route Austrians had climbed (big wall style)the previous seasson without succes of finishing it to the top…Our plan was to climb fast and make it to the summit!
In total, we climbed 5 pitches, about 300meters (5 10+) on a terrain which was really tricky the route finding. Time was running quick, it was late in the afternoon, and hight above the col bich we could see that currents of strong wind were starting to blow throght it, We had still Way to go!! our original plan of going fast throght the first section of the climb was somehow stuck!!… We decided to rapel down, in my mind some new ideas and strategys were growing mixed toghether with an un discribeable feeling of frustation, we abandoned the wall.!!!
I knew this year it was over , my friend Rodrigo, did not have any time left and he had to fly back to Santiago ..
On february 17th an other epic weather window came, this time i wanted to push my limits solo and face my deepest fear. For this i chose Monzino route which follows the southern ridge of the north tower. I had previuslly climbed it in 2008.
If the weather was fine i could unleast get a good try!! I thought.
I woke up at 2am and a short preparation i hiked up to the base of the climb hight up Silencio valley, i was in a state of high awareness hard to describe… there was not time, my only partner was the sound of my heart and the wind,that in one point had completaly disappearded. When i was climbing towards the col in between the central and north tower!!.. There was not even a breeze.
Motivated and without hersitation, i rope soloed a single 65m pitch after the col, which went up to 5 10-, after this, free soloed all the way to the summit block, which i rope soled too!
I was laying in the sun.. hard to believe!!!.. My spanish friends Pedro and Adrian almost died scaping from a very strong storm 3 days before my climb…. After all, life smiles again!
In total i spent 4 hours from the bigining of the climb to the summit and 14 hours base camp to base camp. I actually did not want to climb fast or make any record, i made my way up complately safe, feeling before moving again, making sure that tha decition taken was the right one! Fighting against mediocrity and laziness, trying to do everything as perfect as i was able to. Giving me the oportunity to learn and push myself further.
Two days after the north tower sent, i roped up with my local friend Tomaz Marusic. We chose an amazing line call Taller del sol, a super classical paine route on the west face of the north tower grated 5 10 + which i wanted to climb time ago!.. life was smiling, and sharing this intence and pure adventures with Tomaz was like to be reborn in a farytale land!
Beaten by sudden winds and into the clouds we climbed during the afternoon and Thereby we were climbing the last pitches.. We knew that the weather window was gone .. Even this we decided to continue and push the limits.
The music of a song was showing up time to time in my mind….. free yourself from mental slavery!… fight agains mediocrity!! And after a while in such weather conditions we did any longer knew exactly where the boundaries of mental slavery and mediocrity were when we got near by the false summit, we had reached a place with pretty much no visibility and very strong wind… it seemed we were going to be flown away….. Was it a dream two days ago when i soled the monzino?
The mediocrity dialogue ended by that time, i was down climbing and meeting Tomaz 50 meters down below…we were scaping from the lion mouth.
Rappeling in such conditions was a tricky bussines, we got the rope stuck many times,many times we had to reclimb the pitch and un stuck it. Hard job after many hours of pushing on the wall.
But after all Laughts and smiles were on our faces when we reached the ground, many hours of adventure were already part of the past, even no summit, we had complitted succesfully a nice route on the west face of the north tower, we had made the right move of the game!!… life smiles!!
Un par de fotografias de uno de las paredes mas imprecionantes del Paine, la Cara este de La Torre Central..
Después del intento a la cara este de la central habia desidido ir por la ruta normal de la torre norte en solitario.
A las 2 am sono mi despertador, un estado de ultra conciencia se apoderaba de mi, los colores, el aire, todo era diferente y visto con atros ojos, el tiempo paso casi sin pasar y ahí estaba, me vi en el collado entre la central y la norte, el col bich, no había una pizca de viento, habia estado muchas veces allí, pero ese dia era especial!!!!…. Sin Viento!..
Sin pensarlo y mecanicamente monte mi sistema y me auto asegure en los dos largos mas duros de la escalada, algo asi como un 5.10. Despues de eso sabía que las pasadas técnicas a la cumbre eran pocas.
A las 9 am estaba en la cumbre disfrutando de un día épico en la Patagonia.
Solo 4 horas me tomo en completar la vía, poco equipo y una cuerda de 70 metros.
Estaba de vuelta en el campamento a las 3 pm. Si el tiempo se mantenia queria darle un intento al TALLER DEL SOL, una via clásica que esta en la cara oeste de la torre norte. Recorre un sistema de fisuras perfectas casi por el medio de la pared.
Dos dias despues me estaba encordando con mi amigo local Tomas Marusic. Jugando como en la casa!..
Ahora, estaba en un lugar que habia deseado sin desear, al final daba lo mismo si era alli o alla, no me interezaba.
Como en el arte del sufrir, no habia tiempo ni espacio, los minutos eran horas e igualmente las horas minutos. Vacio / Nada.
Habia comprobado que despues de todo llegaba el esfuerzo sin esfuerzo. Actividad natural, lo deseado finalmente se convertia en algo inexistente, era el tiro preciso, el movimiento perfecto, la armonia. El estado mental, sicologico y fisico que deberia ser el objeto de todos en esta corta existencia.
El Sergio aseguraba unos metros mas abajo, “Deseaba” llegar al final de una vez por todas. cai en el vicio una y otra vez. Pero la clave estaba ahi, en ese mismo lugar. Como el maestro del arco ejecutando un tiro perfecto!!!! No existe mente, cuerpo, tiempo o espacio. el es ser sin ser, el desea sin desear!.
Finalmente habia concluido que el asunto del deseo es una cosa ciclica del cual es dificil salir, igual es la naturaleza de los seres humanos, viaja por nuestras venas, es una asunto instintivo. Luchar para que!!!
Existen ciertos sentimientos que nos impulzan a hacer o des hacer, que motivan o desmotivan. LITOST, es una palabra Checa que hace poco escuche y que pasaba por mi cabeza ultimamente. Creo que no tiene traduccion literal al espanol, el significado mas cercano es “desesperacion”.
LITOST, es la motivacion a la rebelion, abandono contra la naturaleza despiadada del deseo.
Ahora comenzaba el ciclo, sentia el llamado, movimiento perfecto, armonia, no lugar, no tiempo. Como en el tiro perfecto, llegaba sin desearlo.
Fotos: Monserrate, Alrrededores de Benasque y Rodellar. ESPANA. Septiembre 2010