Beuty and self – abandonment

 
 Beauty is not something put together by man. Beauty is when there is complete self-abandonment, a total relinquishing of the self, the “me”, with all its aches and loneliness, with all its despairs, anxieties, and fears. Then you will live in this world as a human being.

Less is more Thoghts

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Papo. On Directa al cosmos. Sierra Nevada del Cocuy

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El Aveyanal. Sierra Nevada del Cocuy. Colombia

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COLOMBIAN DREAM .

DIRECTA AL COSMOS.( 7 c ).  

 EL CONCAVO PEAK. SIERRA NEVADA DEL COCUY.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAEl Concavo South Face.

Early in the year, my friends Orlando Lopez and his nephew Julian  traveled half of the Colombian Territory from Medellin to the most vertical range of our country. El Cocuy. Our main objective was to free climb, 8 amaneceres, located on the vertical east face  (800 meters) of Ritacuba Blanco (5 300 meters), opened a year ago for a team of Spain climbers, Dani Moreno, Edu Marin and Marko Jubes. This route is perhaps the most challenging unsolve free climb in our tropical mountains. A good Adventure – Sport Project to be done with Time and motivation, the precise combo we had plenty of….

El ConcavoChecking out Cosnspiración Cósmica.

 Once we arrived to the range we were sadly informed that the complete east side trails of the range, from north to south, were compleatly closed and restricted for trekkers and climbers,  that  determination was taken by Local  indian Comunitys as well as the Cocuy Natural Park Administration as a conservation  way to preserve a very fragile and sacred high land of that part of Colombia… Nothing to do….  An still no answer when this amazing master piece of rock could be touch again …..

10 days Balcony10 days balcony on the south face of Cóncavo.

As a Salsa Singer says.. “if it rains lemons we had to learn how to make lemonade”,… learn to be flexible, the mantra of our trip …….

Julian Jugging On Conspiración Cósmica

With a small desappointment, and a bitter “lemon taste” in our finger tips,  we decided to give a try to an existing route call Conspiración Cosmica (7b) on Concavo Peak, opened and highly recomendened for our Argentinean – Colombian friend Hernan Wilke, this  one was  located on the west side of the range, without any restriction to approach and with a big potential for new Free Climbing lines …  Good thing after all personal bitter mental dealing……

on conspiraciónOn Conspiración Cósmica

On ConspiraciónOn Conspiración Cósmica

 

We were  finaly on the base of the wall after 3 exhasting approching days carrying all our stuff.  In a side of the head was already being left 8 amaneceres on Ritakuba Blanco , our dream route. El Cóncavo was showing us an other side an a bunch of new vertical challenges..  It was for sure, an Inspiring place to be based in, a good balcony, and good amount of sun during the day to keep finger tips warm and try the potential of our free climbing skills..

Upper balcony!!

 Upper Balcony. On Directa al Cosmos (7c / 7c+)

We Climbed  the compleate Cospiración Cósmica (Cosmic Conspiracy) free, linking up the 2 nd and 3 ed pitch (7b) and we also spent 2 days in our “Upper balcony” free climbing a new direct variation on the head wall of Concavo that we callled “Directa al Cosmos”.. Cosmos Direct (7c / 7 c+)…

On el ConcavoOn El Cóncavo

On The upper wallOrlando On Directa al Cósmos

On el CóncavoOn El Cóncavo

Not that bad after so much “Lemon Frutiño” taste on our trip”…..

We kindly thanks to our friend Hernan for this awesome advise, and also we kindly thanks to SINGING ROCK, climbing equipment , TILAK, outdoor clothIng  and ROCK POINT store Plzen for its support to  this Vertical dream.

 

We share  Motivation and Love!!..

..Good climbs!..

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TROPICAL DREAM. česká verze

http://www.tilak.cz/news/cz/321/tropical-dream/

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On El Nido (7c+) El Peñol. Colombia

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TROPICAL DREAM. PART 2. Sierra Nevada del Cocuy.

Ritacuba

Base Camp on Avellanal. By Adriana Restrepo

During the beginning  of the year my friends Orlando (El Papo), Fabio (El Negro)  and I succeeded in climbing the East face of Ritacuba Blanco (5 400m). Colombia. Via Tierra de Condores  (Condor Land). 800m. We climbed the complete face and the last 250 meters of huge moving blocks, avoiding the last snow hill to the top.

Ritacuba

By Adriana Restrepo

on the wall

The 14 pitch line includes a couple 40 m pitches climbed free up to 7a+. We would say that the 80% of the route is highly esthetic. Gear and camping stuff was initially transported with the help of mules and also with the help of our friends Adriana and Angela from “Parada de Romero” until we reached our base camp on Avellanal Lake on the east side of the Range, from this point we did a few trips to the base of the wall carrying all the necessities for our vertical adventure. In total we spent 3 nights on the wall with fantastic slightly cold “tropical” weather.

on the wall

on the wall

on the wall

It is still hard to recognize the border in between real and un real after an adventure on the edge, seems like everything becomes more clear after some breakfast mix, sipping some yerba mate and chewing some local cheese.!!

We share a few photos with you all !!

Thankx for your cooperation and motivation!

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TROPICAL DREAM PART 1. El Frisol Re Load. 5 -13.

I can still remember myself years ago dangling with aiders super scared from the hook placements up on El Frisol (The bean). An  interesting aid route located in a unique  granite spot in my country. El Peñol – Colombia.

El peñol

El Peñol. By Adriana Restrepo.

It was in 2007 when it first came to my mind the possibility of freeing it…. very good challenge, I thought….. Technical, fingery  and mentally demanding. “All what I needed In one big climbing combo”.

50 meters with a few very nice boulder problems on a blank face and an interesting off width at the final. Surely it might be possible with a bit of time and work….

On El frisol Re load

On El Frisol Recargado. 5 -13. By Adriana Restrepo.

On el Frisol RecargadoOn El frisol Recargado. By Adriana Restrepo.

After rebolting it, my friends from Medellin Jerson, Orlando “El Papo”  and I started an intense “solution quest” of the sequence at the beginning of the first pitch. We spent a while figuring those moves out and giving us the chance of making the dream real!.

In 2010, Jerson finally solved the first hard section and in December 2012 after a complete month of working it out   I successfully   link up the complete route giving  to the spirit  a bit of joy!!

Share a few photos and motivation with all of you!!

Frisol Re load

By Adriana Restrepo.

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